The magical 5 villages

We had heard all about it, Dee had exhausted every possible blog and site reading about it, and here we were – on a train from Milano to the famed Cinque Terre National park region situated on the north west coast of Italy.

Chapter 1 – The train ride

Now during our time in Italy thus far, Trenitalia, the government owned public train company had not exactly set the tracks on fire with its level of service. We witnessed strikes by it’s employees (read my previous blog on Mission: Lago Como), delays in departures, unfriendly staff, all of which had led us to believe that they might after all be on par with Sydney’s infamous CityRail system – which I publicly acknowledge as being amongst the worst train systems I’ve come across.

However, upon boarding the train to La Spezia, from where we were to change trains to the Cinque Terre villages, we were pleasantly surprised at having a private cabin to ourselves for the 54 Euros we had spent on the a 2nd class ticket; thought that’d be reserved for the rich. Not only that, we also had power outlets to plug in our laptops and phone chargers. It does not stop there – black out curtains and curved ergonomic head rests ensured a tireless 3 hours to Cinque Terre. Trenitalia – you’ve served us well thus far.

Chapter 2 – Ascent

We arrived at Manarola, the second of the five villages (from south) to a very picturesque sunset. Dee had warned me that we had a sharp 500 metre ascent from Manarola station to our hostel – ‘Hostel Cinque Terre’ but nothing would have prepared me for the mountain of a hill ahead. Lugging 16kgs on my back and a 9kg camera backpack on my front, the ascent on the hill ensured that I arrived at the reception of the hostel with every muscle in my body having a spasm.

The view from our hostel though was sheer magic and was a quick cure for all the pain that we had just endured

Lesson learnt: Indian men with matchstick legs do not have it in them to climb hills

View from the Hostel Cinque Terre

Chapter 3 – Sunset over the Mediterranean Sea

Having lived on the east coast of Australia for the last 8 and a bit years, I have not had many opportunities (apart from the hazy Bombay sunset) to view the sun set over the water. The Cinque Terre region being on the Italian west coast provided a magnificent view which made for plenty of photos.

We took a walk down Via Del Amore (‘Lover’s lane’ – insert heart shaped cheese here), which is the route that connects Manarola to first of the villages – Riomaggiore. The path curves along the cliff edges and is filled with young and old lovers on holiday and your token loud American tourist (more on that later).

We capped the day off trying some pesto on pasta at a bar overlooking the mediterranean sea. Now pesto originates from the region of Genoa, which is about 50km from the villages, but is also quite famous in the Cinque Terre region – highly recommended!

Lest I forget, of course our day was never complete till we had bumped into a local Aussie/Kiwi/Pommie, obnoxiously drunk in the middle of a serene town such as this. Shameful and typical.

Sunset view from Via Del Amore (route from Manarola to Riomaggiore)

Chapter 4 – The Hike to Monterosso

The next day, post breakfast at our hostel, armed with my camera backpack and trusted Stuck In a Moment Photography singlet, Dee and I descended down the hill to commence the 7km hike from Cornigla to Monterosso. Monterosso is the last of the villages and has 2 beaches with crystal blue water that were to serve as reward for those who complete the grueling trek. Well, there are trains you can use to get there, but that’s for the weak.

We commenced the trek with a climb of a mere 512 steps to get to the top of Cornigla from where we would navigate through a 7km trail via 5 mountains. Though I’ve been a fair bit off the mark this year with my training due to injuries and sheer laziness, the one or two runs a week that I managed back at Sydney with my trusted aides Bridget and Gordon helped me attain a reasonable level of fitness that was required to complete this trail.

Overlooking the village of Vernazza

Village after village, we conquered, through 30+ degree temperatures and 80% humidity till we eventually got to Monterosso around 3pm in the arvo. Dee and I had conflicting opinions on the beach that lay before our eyes. Filled with black sand and pebbles I was not too impressed, having seen magical beaches filled with silky white sand back home. However, upon entering the warm waters of the mediterranean, that opinion changed quickly given that even in summer, Sydney waters are still fairly icy. All said and done, we had completed what was a long cherished dream!

At Monterosso having finished the hike

Chapter 5 – Our first encounter with the American Tourist

I was going to conclude the blog at chapter 4, but how could I not mention our first encounter with ‘Those who we try to avoid’ – your token loud American tourist on the trip. Whilst attempting to capture a long exposure shot of Manarola, I was asked why I was sitting still for a long period of time merely watching my tripod by this american bloke without a tee and a bottle of vino in hand.

I answered explaining the mechanics of a long exposure shot, where I was from, (not what I try to avoid) etc. As Dee and I were heading for dinner, we invited him and his girlfriend to join us. It was all hunky dory till we were seated in the restaurant. Right up till then I was convinced, he was not your token american tourist, but alas I was let down when he with the vino bottle still in hand demanded that the waitress serve him a large dose of octopus in the loudest possible american drone. That drone proceeded to dominate the rest of the conversation at the table much to the annoyance of those around.

Ah well, that was all forgotten when I met a top New Yorker in my hostel dorm who had been traveling around Europe for over a year. He was the anti thesis of the American I had just met – soft spoken, polite, smart, well traveled and insensitive of politically incorrect humour. Back to having attained a neutral view on the great ‘United States of ‘Merica’ I move on.

View of Manarola at Sunset

New Monterosso Beach

The Facts:

Next Stop – Pisa