Toscana Vol 1.0 – Firenze

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Wine under the Tuscan sun, skinny dipping under the Tuscan moon

Post an arvo nap at Pisa, on came the backpacks again and we were en route to Firenze – the city that houses many a famous painting and monument that most of us have seen confined to history books or art magazine.

Chapter 1: Ponte Vecchio, people watching and reunison

We had arranged to meet with our fellow CSers from Germany with whom we had surfed in Milano to do a walk to Ponte Vecchio, one of the most famous bridges in the city atop the River Arn. It houses close to 50 gold shops along a 50 metre stretch and was reminiscent of the ‘Gold Souks’ that you find on the streets of of the old Dubai villages.


Ponte Vecchio

We got to Ponte Vecchio earlier than planned and decided to indulge in what is fast becoming a widely acknowledged sport – ‘ people watching’. Lonely Planet tells us that at sunset, large crowds comprising of primarily love struck teenagers gather on or near Ponte Vecchio to soft light of the sun set over the River Arn; and Lonely Planet was not wrong. In fact, we spotted one over enthusiastic pair ironically attired in ‘Superman’ tees, perched off the ledge of the bridge coochie cooeying away, indifferent to all the voyeurs passing by.

What I also realised over the next hour or so was that women can not only multitask at home or in the office, they can do so too on a pushbike with no gears, up a hill. I saw 2 women, both wearing a beautiful floral coloured dress, armed with a shopping bag on one arm, hair perfectly styled, high heels on feet, one adorned with a pair of Bose headphones and the other with a mobile squeezed in between her ear and shoulder peddling up a hill (no safety helmet either). I call it sheer talent, which I suspect I will only see in Italy, if a woman can look her best on a push bike.


Soon after, we were joined in this noble sport by our CSer mates – Tina, Veronica and Maike (whom I fondly refer to as Michael – you know Italy’s affection for Michaelangelo and all that). A few photos later, we were on our way to do what we do best – devour copious amounts of pizza followed by a healthy dose of gelato


Lovers at sunset (with a few hundred teenage couples 10 metres away on either side of us)

Chapter 2: Couchsurfing, Empoli and Montespertoli

After 40 unsuccessful Couch Requests to hosts in Firenze, the very kind and generous Andrea from Montespertoli, a small town 30 kms from Firenze, invited us to stay over at this place for 4 nights. He picked us from Empoli, a mini industrial hub situated the center of the Toscana region. Over the next 4 days, it became a regular pattern with Andrea dropping us off in the morning at Empoli prior going to work and picking us up at 6pm once he was done with work.

Andrea spoke very little English, about the same amount of Italiano I did, but never once were we lost for words during our stay with him. Our nights were filled with plenty of chat about his new upcoming sandwich shop to his travels around Australia in 2002, and his naturist side (no, he and I did not parade around the house naked, to save Dee from nightmares). That said, on one of the nights, we did make our way to hot springs located in the heart of the Toscana region (near Siena) to experience the joy of skinny dipping in hot waters in the middle of a small forest under the Tuscan stars and moon (well being cloudy, there weren’t many stars on display, but the moon did the trick).

Alright, moving on from nudity, dinner at Andrea’s comprised of the now usual 4 courses as is tradition in Italy – aperitifs, primi piatti – Arabbiatta by Andrea, secondi piatti – chicken curry by Dee, followed by what is tradition in Italy – a shot of Limonchello (a lemon flavoured liquer with a strong dose of alcohol). That was followed by the customary round of Gelato or cake – ah the culinary delights of Toscana! Needless to say, some fine wine always found it’s way into our glasses with Nero D’Avola being my new favourite (cheers Chiara for the tip!).

Somewhere during dinner, there was mention of Dee’s dream of opening a restaurant being possible in Firenze with Andrea’s assistance. Not going to dismiss it as Limonchello


Andrea being greeted Namaste! (NB: Note D’s eyes,NBB: Note board to Andrea’s right)

Chapter 3: Italian picnic at Piazza Michaelangelo

Day 2 of our stay in Toscana, we went back to Firenze and decided to stage a little Italian picnic along with Tina, Veronica and Michael (Maike) at Piazza Michaelangelo from where we could take in panoramic views of the city.

Bottle of wine, a block of mozzarella, chilli olives and crackers packed, we marched uphill towards the Piazza under the blazing Firenze sun. Little did we know that, that was the last of the warm sun rays we’d be feeling for the rest of our stay in Europe this year!

The view from atop the Piazza was something we’d savour for some time to come. To me, it was like walking into a set of Assassin’s Creed (althought that was based in Damascus). Now some might argue that the view could be best summed up as ‘David’s fine arse overlooking Firenze’, nevertheless, it was absolutely scintillating.

Dee and I checking into our token ‘together’ photo

Panoramic view of the city of Firenze

Chapter 4: The culture

Now without harping on about how bad the Australian drinking culture is, let me point out what the benefits are, of being a nation who do not drink to get drunk and silly, but do it as a form of enjoyment with their family and mates.

The fact that the people of Italy do not make fools of themselves and cause a public nuisance when consuming alcohol has resulted in the laws permitting the public consumption of alcohol on the streets, parks, at public monuments and everywhere except around a 2km radius around schools. How I wish we had such laws back home; if only we were a bit more cultured whilst on the piss!

Firenze is renowned to have the best gelaterias in the country and were not disappointed. We went a place recommended on the Lonely Planet and the gelato was probably the best I have ever had! Now not only can you have gelato at one of the hundreds of gelaterias you see on the street, but you can also stop at the bar to have a glass of Vino if you want to destress post the rigours of a tough day at the office. We were pleasantly surprised to see a finely dressed woman (need I state that anymore in Italy) walk into a gelateria with her little pup, order a glass of bianco vino (white wine) at the bar and sip it whilst her little pup plonked itself across the floor to take a break from the heat. Magic!


Gelato at Gelateria Vivolo

The Facts:

  • Trains from Pisa to Firenze run every hour and cost ~7 Euros
  • Hostels and Couch surfing is extremely hard to find during high season, so make sure you book or write in advance to prospective hosts
  • The duomo, Piazza Michaelangelo, Ponte Vecchio are must see places. We did not make it to the ‘Uffizi’ which houses some of the most famous paintings in the world, but it’s been highly recommended.
  • Make sure you have a little picnic atop Piazza Michaelangelo; there is nothing better to do on a sunny day
    Try the gelato at Gelateria Vivolo on via Isola delle Stinche 7 and pizza at Gusta Pizza on Via Maggio 46R- both highly recommended!
  • Next Stop: Toscana Vol 2.0 – Siena and San Gimignano